VENICE


Barocco


In the XVII century, after petty wars and 3 black plague pandemics, Venice lost its title as the financial and industrial center of Europe; instead the elite infiltrated itself in the courts of Europe and Venice became “the first Vegas” known for its casino, opera theaters and the obscene Venice Carnival — so get ready to travel to the days of the spy Giacomo Casanova.


Time period: 1600-1750s

Movie/book: Casanova (2006)/Histoire de Ma Vie by Giacomo Casanova

Soundtrack: Vivaldi’s music/Opera by Pavarotti or Maria Callas

Fashion: red accents, velvet top, plus a canotier

Budget: 130€ - 170€ (50€ for museum/theaters plus 80 - 120€ for food)


Lodovico Ughi: Iconografica Rappresentatione Della Inclita Città di Venezia; Venice, 1729

This tour would take you through: Dorsoduro, where you can find baroque architectural masterpieces, including two by the architect Baldassare Longhena; and San Marco, where the first theaters hosting operas and comedies opened up. The area is characterized by: floating palazzos, campos (public squares) and ornate churches. The Catholic Church moved art forward by unintentionally creating the Baroque style by making churches more majestic full of sculptures, dramatic relatable paintings and elaborate furniture with floral/round motifs. It was a propaganda tactic against the Protestant Reformation by making Jesus and the new Catholic Church more relatable. This style would migrate from Rome to the rest of the Christian world, arriving in Venice after the city got decimated by the Black Plague from 1575-77 and latter on from 1630-31, killing one third of the population. Fun fact: the term quarantine comes from Venice. But the republic of Venice emerged again after the pandemic as a touristic destination where one could enjoy the best things in life: art, food, shopping plus entertainment — the Las Vegas of the time within the religious Europe known for its hedonism, opulence and sexual freedom. Lace, masks, and chandeliers were the souvenirs of the time; The Opera House (inaugurated in 1637), The Casinò (opened in 1638) and the commedia dell’Arte (standup comedy) were the main form of entertainment; and the Venice Carnival with the Festa della Madonna della Salute (a holiday celebrated after 1630 where city's officials parade from San Marco to the Salute for a service in gratitude for deliverance from the plague) the most important events of the year. The biggest achievement for the Venetians during the baroque period was firstly in music thanks to composers like Claudio Monteverdi, Antonio Vivaldi and Benedetto Marcelo; and secondly in opera/comedy thanks to writers like Francesco Cavalli and Carlo Goldini. In 1539 the Council of Ten created the Inquisitori Della Stato, basically their own network of espionage throughout the royal courts of Europe, with baili (embassadors) and merchant protecting the Republic from an Ottoman, French or Habsburg invasion. Later in the 1700s became a way for bankers and merchants to infiltrate their products/loans to other countries and finance wars. One of such spies was the iconic womanizer Giaccomo Casanova who also used seduction as a form to gain information and spread the sexual tendencies of the Venetians (hook up culture). The Serenissima was in peace and in a lavish party during the 1700s reflected in the paintings of Canaletto until Napoleon ruined it in 1797 when he invaded the city — putting an end to the longest republic in history. The tour suggest visiting a palace and a church by Baldassare in the morning; the Academia dell’Arte, the music museum and a historical cafe in the afternoon; and a play at the Teatro Goldini plus dinner at the Casinò di Venezia to end the end.

Stops:

1 Santa Maria La Salute


2 Ca Rezzonico plus Brunch


3 Gallerie dell'Accademia


4 Museo della Musica di Venezia


5 Piazza San Marco


6 Cafe Florian


7 Play at Teatro Goldoni


8 Dinner at Casinò di Venezia

Canaletto: Regatta on the Grand Canal; Venice, 1740

Bernardo Strozzi: Vanitas (Old Coquette); Venice, 1637